We had a wonderful time in Colorado. The drive was surprisingly enjoyable in the giant gypsy wagon. Our first stop of note was Santa Fe — an odd little town at the historic crossroads of the Pecos Trail and the Rio Grande. Well, they’re nearby anyway. They’re not into accuracy in Santa Fe. But you can just feel the history and the sense of the desert there. We met Kate and Beno Schoenborn there — former neighbors of Mom and Dad — who live in this palatial hacienda on a hill overlooking the shimmering lights of the capital of New Mexico. The town square is dominated by a cathedral of European proportions and flavor. Between Santa Fe and Los Alamos is Bandeliero National Monument, where ancient cave dwellings overlook the ruins of a characteristic Anasazi city. The drive in takes you on some breathtaking mountain switchbacks studded with anomalous giant satellite dishes pointed skyward. The contrast is somehow still charming and poetic.
The kids — to my surprise and delight — were fascinated by and about the caves and people who once lived in them. I had thought I would be dragging them along to see “boring pictographs and petroglyphs” but once they summoned the courage to go into one of these cliff dwellings that approach 1000 years old — and actually saw a snake petroglyph close up — they couldn’t stop asking questions. They particularly wanted to see some of the people who lived here and were totally mystified when I told them that no one knew where they went. The next day we cruised on out of there on the way to a place I’ve wanted to visit for very many years. Probably the best example of Anasazi architecture in the country and a worldwide archaeological treasure — Pueblo Bonito and Chetro Ketl in Chaco Canyon. It was positively breathtaking. First I should say that it was an adventure getting there. Its a thirty mile drive down a dirt road — and the dirt road begins in the middle of the desert!
We were a little anxious, since it was threatening rain — ironic in the desert — and considering the Anasazi probably vacated this magical and breathtakingly beautiful place due to extended drought. They say that demanding dirt road turns into a mud bath in the rain, so we kept a wary eye on the weather. The place is really beyond description, but imagine a series of towns, several thousand people living in each, extending over twenty miles of what is now desert canyon. Each town a gem of harmony with the rugged cliffs above and vast dry expanse of desert below. I can only quote Elizabeth: “I NEVER want to leave this place! I LOVE it! I want to stay here FOREVER!!!” Its just a short drive (at least by Texas standards) from there to Durango. Our condo was fantastic, with outstanding views out front and back. Nestled in a cozy valley of the San Juan range — I can’t really say enough about it.
Durango is friendly and quaint, sitting on the Animas river (actually, Rios de los Animas Fuertos — “the river of lost souls”). That is why they call the place “Purgatory. ” It does deliver on the name in one way, though. Once I got out on the slopes, I for one felt totally purged of any stress or anxiety I may have had. It felt just great! The beautiful sunny weather — crisp mountain air — and the thrill of speeding down the slopes. What a rush! I loved it! I found myself dreaming of moving down the mountain. It was a good dream. We came back a different way, past Wolf Creek (another ski resort of decent reputation), over the continental divide and some of the most beautiful mountain scenery I’ve seen anywhere, into a complete (and thankfully short) white-out blizzard at the 10,000 foot Wolf Creek Pass, among the headwaters of the Rio Grande, which there is a crystal clear, fast-flowing mountain stream.
Back down through Taos for a perfect sunset, the kind that bizarre Pueblo-commune/art colony is famous for. Taos appears to have one art gallery for every ten people. Really. That brings us back home through miles and miles of Texas. Boy, this state is big. And now we’re rushing headlong into spring, with activities, shows, recitals and God knows what else. Europeans laugh at what they call an “American vacation,” where we dash through three countries in a week. What they don’t understand is that we actually LIVE like that! Now that we’re back home, we can’t wait to get back out there and vacate some more. On the whole, I’d say driving in the van is a very comfortable way to travel if you have the time.
We’re thinking about putting the boat back in a marina. We’re looking at one a little further down the river which will let us explore some new unfamiliar coves and capture some of that “vacation head” and allow us to inject it into an ordinary weekend or even weekday. Anita is studying very hard. She even has some pig brains or something in a cooler in the garage. (some homework!) She’s getting all A’s, by the way. Elizabeth is dancing her heart out & Monica is doing very well in her piano lessons. They both have recitals coming up.